Drapehaus
Preparing the room
Drapehaus
Preparing the room
Season
From late December to the end of February, Goa is full. Properties are let, houses have guests, and the practical reality is that nothing can be taken out of service. Whatever is installed on the twentieth of December has to work until March.
By the Drapehaus studio · 19 September 2026 · How we write

It is also the period of strongest, clearest sun. After the monsoon haze clears, the dry-season light is intense and low in the afternoons, and rooms that were comfortable in August can become difficult in January.
The planning lesson is entirely about the preceding months. Peak season is when you find out whether the October decisions were right.
Monsoon light is soft and diffuse. Dry-season light is hard, direct and considerably more intense, and it arrives at a lower angle in the afternoons through December and January. A west-facing room that was perfectly pleasant during the rains can become unusable after four in the afternoon.
This catches people out because the window treatment was specified during the monsoon, assessed under monsoon light and judged adequate. It was adequate — for that light. The test is January, not August.
If a room is going to need solar control, it is far better to establish that in October and fit it then than to discover it in January when nothing can be installed without disrupting guests.
A let property in peak season sees more handling in eight weeks than in the rest of the year combined. Leading edges get grubby, chains get pulled, and anything marginal fails.
The practical response is to enter the season with everything in good order and to hold spares. A replacement roller blind in a cupboard turns a failure into a twenty-minute fix; without one, a broken blind is either a guest complaint or an emergency callout at peak rates.
For owners of multiple units, standardising across the portfolio is what makes this work. One spare covers several flats only if they are all the same.
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The quickest assessment is to be in the room at the worst hour. For west-facing rooms that is usually between about three and five in the afternoon; for east-facing bedrooms it is the first hour after sunrise. Note where the sun falls, how far into the room it reaches and what it lands on — a bed, a sofa, a screen.
Separate glare from heat, because they need different answers. Glare is a light problem: bright patches, squinting, a television that cannot be watched. Heat is an energy problem: a room that stays warm into the evening, an air conditioner that runs constantly. Many rooms have both, but usually one dominates.
Look at the glass as well as the room. Clear single glazing lets through most of the sun's energy, while tinted or coated glass has already taken some of it out. Knowing which you have tells you whether a curtain alone can solve the problem or whether the window itself needs attention.
The most effective shading stops the sun before it reaches the glass. Research summarised by the US Department of Energy found that exterior shades cut dangerous indoor heat hours by around 55 per cent in extreme heat, against roughly 18 per cent for interior roller shades. Awnings on west-facing windows can reduce solar heat gain by up to 77 per cent.
Exterior shading is not always possible, particularly in apartments or heritage houses. Inside, a curtain with a pale backing facing the glass does noticeably better than a bare fabric; the DOE's figure for medium-coloured drapes with white backing is a reduction in heat gain of about a third. Closing them in the afternoon matters as much as what they are made of.
Sheers and screen-fabric roller blinds cut glare while keeping the view, which suits living rooms used in the afternoon. They do much less for heat. UV window film is almost invisible and blocks most ultraviolet light, which protects fabric and furniture from fading, but on its own it is a partial answer to heat.
The last week of December brings late nights across much of coastal Goa, with parties, music and fireworks going on well past midnight. Guests and family who go to bed at three in the morning still wake when the sun comes up, and in a room with light leaking around the curtains that can be very early.
For bedrooms, the dry season is when blackout matters most. The sun rises in a clear sky with no monsoon cloud to soften it, and a gap of a few centimetres at the top or sides of a curtain throws a bright line across the room. Side channels on roller blinds, or curtains that overlap the frame and return to the wall, solve this.
Heavy, lined curtains also take some of the edge off outside noise, although they are no substitute for good windows. They soften sound reflecting around a hard-surfaced room more than they block sound coming in, which is still worth having in a tiled bedroom. For a bedroom facing a busy road, lined curtains that meet the floor and overlap at the centre make the most of this.
The dry months bring dust. Roads and gardens dry out, windows stay open for the breeze, and fine dust settles on sheers, pelmets and the tops of blinds. Pale sheers can turn grey within a few weeks, and dust held in fabric also attracts moisture once the air becomes humid again in May.
In a house that cannot take rooms out of service, the answer is routine rather than deep cleaning. A soft brush attachment on a vacuum, run over curtains and blinds each week, keeps most of the dust off. Leading edges, which hands touch every day, benefit from spot cleaning on changeover days in a let property.
Washable items such as sheers and cushion covers can be rotated if you hold a second set: one in use, one in the wash. In January and February they dry quickly, so a set can be washed and returned within a day. For properties that cannot spare a room out of service, that second set is the maintenance plan.
The busiest weeks of the year are also the best evidence. Guest comments, complaints about heat or light, the blind that jammed twice, the room where everyone closes the curtains at four o'clock — all of it is information for the next October, and it is easily forgotten by then.
A simple log kept through the season, noting the room, the date and the problem, turns scattered complaints into a specification. By March the pattern is usually clear: one or two rooms need solar control, one mechanism needs replacing, and the rest was fine. It needs nothing more than a notebook kept with the property's other paperwork, or a shared note on the caretaker's phone.
Some of that work can happen immediately after peak season, in March and April, when properties are quieter and the weather is still dry. The rest belongs in the monsoon planning, ready for installation after the rains. Splitting the list this way means the quick fixes are not held up by the larger decisions. Either way, the evidence gathered in peak season is what makes the next round of work accurate rather than guesswork.
Diagnosis
WhySpecified and assessed under soft monsoon light. Dry-season sun is harder, more intense and arrives lower.
FixJudge solar control against January conditions, not August. Fit in October if there is any doubt.
WhyMarginal component entering the busiest eight weeks of the year with no spare held.
FixService everything in October and hold spares. Standardise across units so one spare covers several.
WhyNo spare, no slack in the schedule, and every fitter in Goa already committed.
FixPreventive replacement in October costs a fraction of a January emergency.
WhyFull occupancy from late December through February.
FixAccept that peak season is for operating, not improving. Schedule all work for October or the monsoon.
WhyLight leaking around the edges and over the top; the fabric is opaque but the geometry is not.
FixSide channels on a roller blind, or curtains that overlap the frame and return to the wall at each side.
WhyFine dry-season dust carried in through open windows and settling on pale fabric.
FixBrush-vacuum weekly and hold a second set so one can be washed and dried while the other is up.
WhyWest-facing clear glass with interior shading only, letting most of the sun's heat into the room.
FixLog it for October: exterior shading, an awning or a pale-backed curtain closed early will do far more.
Checklist
Assess solar control against dry-season light, not monsoon light
Service and repair everything in October
Hold spares for anything mechanical
Standardise across units so spares are interchangeable
Replace anything marginal before the season, not during
Plan all improvement work for outside these months
Stand in each west-facing room between three and five in the afternoon
Check bedrooms at sunrise for light leaking at edges and top
Brush-vacuum curtains and blinds weekly through the dry months
Keep a log of every guest complaint about heat, light or hardware
From the Journal
All articlesFAQ
Dry-season sun is far more intense than monsoon light and arrives at a lower angle in the afternoons. A room assessed under soft August light can be genuinely difficult by four in the afternoon in January, which is why solar control should be judged against dry-season conditions.
October. From late December through February the property is full and nothing can be taken out of service, so anything marginal entering the season will fail during it, at the worst possible moment and at emergency rates.
Yes, if you own more than one unit and they are standardised. A spare in the cupboard turns a mid-season failure into a twenty-minute swap rather than a guest complaint and an emergency callout during the busiest weeks of the year.
Technically yes, practically it is best avoided. Properties are occupied, fitters are fully committed, and rates reflect that. Peak season is for operating what you have; October and the monsoon are for improving it.
External shading is considerably more effective, because it stops the sun before it reaches the glass. US Department of Energy research found exterior shades cut dangerous heat hours by around 55 per cent, against about 18 per cent for interior roller shades. Where exterior shading is not possible, pale-backed curtains closed early still help.
Almost always because light is getting round the fabric, not through it. Gaps at the top, the sides and the centre overlap throw bright lines across the room in clear dry-season mornings. Wider curtains that overlap the frame and return to the wall, or roller blinds with side channels, fix it.
Routine rather than deep cleaning. Brush-vacuum curtains and blinds weekly, spot-clean leading edges on changeover days, and hold a second set of sheers and cushion covers so one can be washed while the other is in use. In the dry months a washed set is usually back up within a day.
Only partly. UV film blocks most ultraviolet light, which is excellent for protecting fabric and furniture from fading, and it is almost invisible. But much of the sun's heat arrives as visible and infrared light, so for a hot west-facing room it works best alongside shading rather than instead of it.
Look at the log you kept through the season and sort it. Anything simple, such as a replacement blind or a new sheer, can often be done in March or April while properties are quieter and the weather is still dry. Larger work, such as solar control for a whole elevation, is best specified in the monsoon for installation in October.
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