Chesterfield Sofas, Deep-Buttoned and Made to Size

Deep buttoning begins with marking a grid of diamonds on the padded back. At each point the upholsterer pushes a hole through the padding, then pulls a button, threaded with strong twine, into the hole and ties it off at the back of the frame. The covering, cut generously, is folded into pleats running between the buttons, so that the surface forms a pattern of raised diamonds.

The quality shows in the lines. Pleats should run straight and parallel, the diamonds should be even across the whole back and around the curve of the arms, and the buttons should sit at the same depth. Uneven tension leaves some buttons sunk and others proud, which is obvious once the sofa is in the room's light.

Buttons can be covered in the same leather or fabric, or left plain. Covered buttons are traditional and blend in; they also need to be stitched firmly, because a lost button leaves a hole in the pattern that is hard to hide.

The traditional chesterfield's arms and back are the same height, so the sofa reads as a single low block. In a heritage room with a high ceiling and tall windows, a longer sofa with full, generous scrolls holds its own; a short one looks like doll's-house furniture against the volume of the room.

In a contemporary flat with lower ceilings, we reduce the scroll and the overall height, use a slimmer arm and raise the sofa on visible legs so floor shows beneath. That keeps the character while lowering the visual weight.

Length and arm width interact. Full rolled arms can take a large share of the overall length, so a chesterfield of the same outside size as a track-arm sofa seats fewer people. We set the length from the seats you need, not the reverse, and check it against the wall and windows at the survey.

Goa's monsoon humidity stays high for months, and a house that is closed up holds that moisture in still air. The button pits on a chesterfield are small pockets where dust settles and air barely moves, which makes them the first place mould appears if the room is not ventilated. A soft brush worked into each pleat, and a vacuum nozzle run along the lines, keep them clean.

Nailhead trim, the line of decorative studs along the arms and base, is a traditional finish. Near the sea, plated or untreated brass nails tarnish and can stain pale leather or fabric around them. We discuss the finish before fitting, and for houses close to the coast often suggest a trim in a matching fabric band instead, or nails with a protective finish that are wiped down regularly.

The frame also deserves attention. A heavy hardwood frame is the right base for a chesterfield, kiln-dried and treated against borers and termites, because the whole point of the piece is that it lasts long enough to be re-covered.

Leather is the classic chesterfield covering and it buttons beautifully, giving sharp pleats and a deep shine. It also needs more care in Goa than almost any other material. In a damp, closed room, the surface can grow white or green mould; in a dry, air-conditioned room or strong sun, it can dry and crack.

Leather does best in a room that is used and aired every day, out of direct afternoon sun, and conditioned a few times a year. If the house will be locked for the monsoon, leave ventilation running where possible, or choose a fabric instead. Our journal article on fungus on leather sofas sets out how to spot and treat early mould before it marks the hide.

Artificial leather is sometimes chosen to avoid these problems, but in a humid climate some coated fabrics peel and crack over time. We explain the differences honestly at the consultation and show samples of each.

Velvet is the other traditional choice, and the pile catches light along every pleat, giving buttoning real depth. A synthetic velvet resists crushing and damp far better than cotton, and comes in deep colours, bottle green, oxblood and ink blue, that suit the form.

A textured weave or linen-look fabric softens the chesterfield, making it feel more relaxed and less formal, and it is the lowest-maintenance covering in humidity. The pleats are slightly softer in a woven fabric, so we adjust the buttoning tension to keep the pattern defined. You can try colours on our sofa fabric simulator before seeing samples at home.

A ready-made chesterfield is built to standard proportions that may suit a modern flat but rarely suit a tall heritage room, and the frame and buttoning quality vary widely. Made to measure lets us set the length, the scroll size and the seat depth for your room and your sitters, and choose the covering for the house's climate.

Old chesterfields are often worth saving. Many have solid hardwood frames that will take another covering. Reupholstery, stripping back to the frame, replacing the springs, webbing and padding and re-buttoning by hand, keeps the original proportions and character of an inherited piece.